Thursday, November 30, 2006

China

Going to China

Why China?
Because of

- Pictures of the Li River

- Dreams of the Himalayas

- China‚'s ancient history and its amazing turmoil and changes

- Because it's the biggest fastest growing place in the world

Why now? Because a respectable tour offer arrived in my mail complete with a China expert, Tibet and all the other major highlights of China except the Great Gorges. It was too good to pass up.

A Chinese proverb says A thousand-li journey should start from the earth beneath your feet.

So dig your toes in deep before you click on...


Beijing Capital city of 13 Million and home of Tian'an Menen Square, the Forbidden City, and the gruesome Night Market.

Xian Historic capital and home of the amazing Terracotta Warriors

Lhasa Fantastic views of the Mountains and Cultures - Yak Yak Yak

Chengdu Spicy smoky city hiding the Pandas

Guilin Tourist town a great stop for the lights, Caves, traffic, waterfall, and the Li River

Yangshuo River Life, beautifull scenery, and a nice compact tourist town.

Shanghai Big City life 17M people and building. Up up and away.


Conclusion A trip of two and a half weeks that could barely scrape at the six thousand years of civilized history, the 1.3 billion people, and the future.

Conclusion

The End of the Journey

Highlights

- Lhasa for the mountain and people views

- The Li River including Yangshuo

- The Terrocotta Warriors

- The Pandas

- The Great Wall

- Shanghai river between the Bund and Pudong

On the down side

- the vendors and their constant sales pitches

- Dreary smoggy dirty cities


Back to Basics: Many public bathrooms (W/C) have a common set of shared sinks that connect to separate rooms of toilet for each sex. You can see westerners walk into a wash area and wonder if they walked in the wrong door.

You would hope that a new economy would learn from older ones and build their infrastructure with the best technology. Unfortunately even thought northern China is dry and consistently short on water they don't use the water saving Australian style toilets. Yet they were in use in wetter southern city of Chengdu.


Exophobia: There were westerners in the major cities and tourist spots and I always saw some but not many on the streets when I ventured out. Beijing and Shanghai felt like being in New York very cosmopolitan. In Chengdu and Xian I felt more conspicuous, the people were shorter than in the major cities and there were less westerners. I hadn'’t experienced both sticking out in the crowds race wise and unable to understand signs or words at the same time before,– I hope I remember the feeling when I meet visitors. However - outside of the street vendors - the people were non threatening and I never felt unsafe.


Culture Shock: I found out that our tour guide had never heard of Brad and Angelina - this was when they had just adopted a child and were at the top of the headlines.

She is so cultured and intelligent but yet so ignorant of the focus of American media - it made me jealous. :)


One final view and soundclip of China from our last stop Shanghai .

Sunset on Shanghai 4As the sun sets over Shanghai a busker signals the changing nature of China by skipping the traditional music and instruments in favor of a western guitar and song.

Shanghai Subway Stretto




Some books and links that I found useful

Books

River Town - Peter Hessler. Recollections of a young writer living and teaching in a river town as China began to re-emerge into the world.


Death of a Red Heroine - Qiu Xiaolong. a mystery in 1990 Shanghai that opens up the culture as well as telling a good story


Sounds of the River - Da Chen. Country boy goes to Beijing University as China begins to open up - highlights the cultural shock of going from the country to the city to the world


Wild Grass - Ian Johnson. Three stories of conflict and change in modern China revealing some of the hidden issues and conflicts that still exist


Culture Shock - Kevin Sinclair, Iris Wong Po-Yee. A guide book to visiting and living in China including customs, much more forgiving of the Chinese government that most


Sons of Heaven - Terrence Cheng. Novel about two brothers on different sides of the events at Tian'an Men Square in 89.




Links

List of world heritage sites in China

China tourism site

Anti government site

General news feed

Another government news source

Blog that collects anti government articles

Government news site

Radio Free Asia news on China

China Blog list

About China

General news feed

Government television CCTV 9 is in the English channel available in some hotels and in the US on the Dsatellitelite Network.

Conversational Mandarin Chinese Online

Travel site with forum

Shanghai

Shanghai- Last stop and finally an answer as to why so many Chinese think they should sell westerners watches. See the Nanking Statue - at the end of this entry.

Hear the 1,500,000,000 voices of China all at once. Okay maybe not all 1.5m



We flew over many new buildings with blue roofs on the way to shanghai. Was it for good luck or because of a new building material I don't know. The farmland on the way is in small patches as local farms still survive.

Pudong and the Bund
City Life and Tourist Spots

River life in the big city - the Bund and the Pudong

One tour member who had been to Shanghai in the late eighties before the Pudong was started remarked that he felt like an Indian coming back to Manhattan now after selling it for $24.

PudongThe classic view of the Podong from the Bund. The Pudong was farmland until 1990 when government started clearing the land and building the space age skyline.



River viewRiver view



Industry on the RiverIndustry on the River



Walking the BundThe Bund is the old western portion of Shanghai. It used to be subdivided with sections ruled by Britian, the US, and other countries. A raised walkway follows the river giving an view of the river and the Pudong across the way.



Floating TV ScreenThis barge toats a Large television screen along the river



River BoatsTour boats cruise up and down the river. I recommend a cruise at sunset.



Worlds Tallest BuildingsAt the time of the picture (October 2006) the building on the left was said to be the third tallest in the world and the one on the right half way done to being the tallest.



Sunset on Shanghai 1Sunset on Shanghai



Sunset on Shanghai 2



Skyscrapers 1Skyscrapers



Skyscrapers 2



Shanghai buildingMore on the way.



Pudong at DuskPudong at Dusk



Pudong Night ActionPudong Night Action




City Life and Tourist Spots

Shanghai SubwayThe endless subway cars of the Shanghai subway. The cars are seemlessly connected. This picture was before rush hour on the way back I was the last one to squeeze in.




The people of China are known to have a great passion and respect for food, predating their starvation diets that too many had in the great leap forward. They treat meals as events and usually have a crowd to enjoy them.

I liked the meals in China although some complained that they were 1) too much the same 2) had too much food 3) and were not what they were used to. The restaurants they took us to were for tourists. One night I came back from a solo excursion and ate alone in the hotel but with a non English speaking wait staff in their local restaurant. I had chicken soup (way too big a bowl), and some veggies, and some other main course. I forget what but it was good but not exciting. The servings all seemed to be sized to share.

Another time I ventured with our traveling professor to a local fast food restaurant.
Local Fast Food drinkLocal Fast Food drink



Local Fast FoodLocal Fast Food shop with no English on the signs and no pictures of the food. I had some very tasty beef with noodles in a broth. I repaid the local staff by entertaining them with a view of a western trying to eat long soupy noodles with chopsticks. Hope they enjoyed it.

I used chopsticks most nights but these noodles were a problem. For most meals, we ate off small plates and the courses were brought to a lazy Susan in the center of the table. The dishes were in no particular order and you never knew what was coming or when it was going to stop. Usually it stopped when they brought out desert (always – watermelon and sometimes with other fruits) but once they followed it with a large plate of fish. Of course I had already stuffed myself so I skipped the eyeball.

Bok Choy was common, usually white rice, only occasionally, all meals had soup that was usually very good, a lot of the meat was all bone and skin and not worth tackling but usually a plate or two had something good, yak in particular was tasty. Chengdu had Sichuan food and they didn’t tell you what was spicy or not but most was bland enough to survive. Even though they tried to scare us most of it wouldn’t have been out of place in an western restaurant (although it would have been labeled hot and spicy). I did suffer once on a hidden pepper where I finished my beer, my water, and all the watermelon I could get before it subsided.

They did give us a couple of breaks where you could get pizza & pasta or steaks. But obviously the quality wasn’t the same.

Breakfasts were in top end hotels and included western style with fruit, cereal, omelets and bacon plus sometimes Chinese rice balls. I tried some pickled vegetables but only once.

The little wine I had was mediocre, the beer better (sometimes Australian), the green tea was fine, and the yak butter tea creamy with a distinctive non western taste. Supposedly the house wives of Tibet drink it all day long – I’m not sure what else is in it… But very few of our group took seconds.

Overall good, but not the expected culinary adventure – okay the Twelve Dumplings dinner in Chengdu was fantastic, the camel paws at the Empress Dinner were something else, and the Beijing night market was out of Halloweeen - so call me jaded.

Shanghai was the last stop so I also did the McDonald's check. They handed me a point and choose plastic menu. I selected the equivalent of a quarter pounder with cheese and recieved received one with cucumber slices and yellow sauce although the fries were the same. It was spicy than most of the food we were served at the tourist restaurants. The combo was 17.50 RMB or $2.23 US - less than 1/2 US prices.



Shanghai Street ActionShanghai Street Action, a fast moving city.



Shanghai Acrobats 1Shanghai Acrobats, a variety show aka Ed Sullivan without the Beatles or Elvis.



Shanghai Acrobats 2Acrobats on chairs, but notice the guide wires.



Silk CocoonsSilk Cocoons at another educational sales opportunity.



Pulling silk from the cocoonsThese machines unweave the silk worm cocoons and create a spool of thread to make silk bed covers.



ApartmentsApartments



Vet Street HospitalThis vet was working in an open store front.



Ice WagonPudong skyscrapers to ice wagons. Two centuries of living in one city.



Brass PlateBrass Plate from the Shanghai museum. One thing I learned from the museum was that I liked Eight Eccentrics better than the Four Wangs. (I found their paintings were less detailed but more evocative - really.)



Shanghai Museum 1Shanghai Museum friendly face.



Shanghai Museum 2Not so friendly face.



Rock GardenRock Garden



Garden StatueGarden Statue



What westerns look likeOne of enlightments that traveling brings is to see how the rest of the world views us.

This statue on Nanking Road - one of the worlds most famous shopping streets - says it all. If you look closely you'll see that neither western adult is wearing a watch... obviously a need to be fulfilled.

Sales Pitch



Next stop Conclusion

Or return to China

Yangshuo

Yangshuo - A major tourist stop along the Li River, they have a shopping street called West Street but I think they were too busy selling other items to get around to selling watches.


We cruised under cloudy skies and occasional showers past river life including villages, water buffalos, water taxis, and bamboo rafts with fisherman, tourists, and vendors.

Traveling the Li River
Impressions of the Li River

Traveling the Li River



Kelp FishingKelp Fishing



Li River Side ReflectionLi River Side Reflection



Li River TaxiThe bike rider was given a ferry ride across the river.



Li River 1



Li River 2



Li River 3The limestone Karst rise above the Li River.



Red FlagRed Flag



Li River 4



Li River Village 1A working village along the river.



Li River CruiseI'm not sure if this was a double date or a hired cruise.



Li River 5



Water Buffalo 1Water Buffalo



Cleaning in the RiverCleaning in the River



Playing in the RiverPlaying in the River



Li River 6



Water Buffalos 2More Water Buffalos


Li River Sample


Rice PaddiesOne of the few rice paddies that we passed.



Minnie Mao's CafeA Tourist city with a western attitude.



Li River 7



West StreetWhen you exit the boat you are led through a covered gauntlet with vendor stalls on both sides as far as you can see. Finally, you break free onto West street with more shops and vendors to entice you.

Actually the vendors had it toned down a notch, maybe because we were on a later boat.


Impression on Sanjie Liu

On the banks of the Li, we sat and watched a show unfold on the river. Torch carriers and singers danced their way across the water under colored lights and in front of the majestic Li River scenery. Modern music and traditional folk songs filled the air. The audience was entranced.

Review of Impression on Sanjie Liu


Impressions of Li 1An extravagant folk show.



Impressions of Li 2Impressions of Li



Impressions of Li 3



Impressions of Li 4



Impressions of Li 5





What are you looking atWhat are you looking at?



CormorantsThe Cormorants are famous for being harnessed by the Chinese throughout history for fishing. Natural fishing birds, their beaks or necks were strapped stopping them from swallowing their catch. However if they returned to the boat the fisherman took the fish but gave them a bite size reward. Now they primarily do tourist duty.




In the Airport book shop I found the books that I had expected to see but hadn't found. There were a series of white covered books about America. One was called "America's Unforgivable Crimes" which included pictures of Dylan, LBJ, miners, hurricanes, and a news clip on George Bush's record 1000 jobs lost. The text was in Chinese but there was a quote in English America is not heaven but a highly civilized country. What can you say to that?




Next stop Shanghai

Or return to China